Type 1 Ball Joint Front (S4 & L/LS Fitting) 13 Models
Part No Fitting Compressed Extended Travel
MA700 S4 L1/CP3 12.750 + 21.375 = 8.625
MA711 S4 LS14 11.875 + 19.625 = 7.750
MA726 S4 LS38 12.250 + 19.750 = 7.500
MA750 LS39 S4 11.625 + 18.875 = 7.250
MA756 S4 LS17 10.250 + 16.375 = 6.125
MA777 S4 LS26 12.500 + 20.500 = 8.000
MA793 S4 LS26 14.250 + 23.750 = 9.500
MA802 L1 S4 11.375 + 18.125 = 6.750
MA805 S4 L1/CP4 12.750 + 19.500 = 6.750
MA809 S4 LS7 14.250 + 21.500 = 7.250
MA810 S4 L1/CP3 12.375 + 20.500 = 8.125
MA811 S4 LS4 13.625 + 22.250 = 8.625
MA815 S4 L1/CP3 12.250 + 19.875 = 7.625
Link Pin Front & Type 1 Rear (L/LS & L/LS Fitting) 30 Models
Part No Fitting Compressed Extended Travel
MA704 L2 L2 13.125 + 21.250 = 8.125
MA727 L1 L1 12.750 + 20.375 = 7.625
MA728 L1/CP5 L1/CP3 14.250 + 23.375 = 9.125
MA730 L1 LS38 12.875 + 21.000 = 8.125
MA733 LS39 L2 15.500 + 26.250 = 10.750
MA743 L1/CP5 LS47 14.000 + 23.000 = 9.000
MA746 LS38 LS39 13.125 + 21.000 = 7.875
MA757 LS39 L2 13.875 + 22.500 = 8.625
MA758 LS74 LS74 14.125 + 23.000 = 8.875
MA768 LS28 LS26 12.000 + 18.500 = 6.500
MA769 L1 LS26 14.125 + 22.875 = 8.750
MA770 L1 LS26 15.875 + 26.375 = 10.500
MA771 L1 LS26 14.125 + 22.875 = 8.750
MA772 L1 LS26 15.000 + 24.750 = 9.750
MA773 L1 LS26 13.500 + 21.750 = 8.250
MA774 L3 LS43 13.500 + 21.250 = 7.750
MA775 L1 LS26 15.500 + 25.750 = 10.250
MA784 LS7 LS7 13.375 + 21.500 = 8.125
MA785 LS14 LS53 9.500 + 14.000 = 4.500
MA791 LS83 LS28 15.125 + 22.375 = 7.250
MA792 L1 L1 13.000 + 21.250 = 8.250
MA803 LS23 LS30 10.500 + 16.125 = 5.625
MA812 L1 L1 12.750 + 20.750 = 8.000
MA813 LS7 LS7 14.125 + 22.875 = 8.750
MA814 LS32 LS32 12.000 + 18.375 = 6.375
MA817 LS40 LS40 12.750 + 20.875 = 8.125
MA818 L3 LS43 14.875 + 23.625 = 8.750
MA820 L1 L1 14.375 + 23.000 = 8.625
MA824 LS26 LS26 12.750 + 20.125 = 7.375
MA826 LS12 LS42 11.000 + 16.000 = 5.000
I have been wondering what rims to fit. I obviously love the Sprintstars on Myrtle, so they were an option, but it did seem a bit twee to have matching rims. So then went down the road road of which Porsche 914 rims should I have. Gas Burners? 2.0L? Pedrini? Mahle Baby Burners? Or even some Rivieras?
In the end the choice was simple as I was lucky enough to get a second bite at an Ebay auction for 5 original 4.5" Sprintstars at a brilliant price. To be delivered and refurbed soon….
Running aftermarket single or dual carbs on a aircooled VW flat four will probably require you to fit a fuel regulator to ensure the carb(s) receive the correct fuel pressure. Carbs don't like being force fed or starved. Bit like me really. Ok, just the second one.
I ran twin 40 DRLA's on Myrtle with the standard repo mechanical fuel pump and just a little plastic filter for about a year with no issues, but that's not to say my pump just happened to be a nice suit pressure wise for the carbs. It has be known for the standard pump to throw out 10psi. Maybe I was just very lucky. Why I didn't check the pressure is still a mystery to me, but it doesn't matter now as I have fitted a Facet Posi-Flow (Model 60106) and a Malpassi Filter King Regulator set initially 3psi.
Finding somewhere to fit the regulator in an already cramped 1200 engine bay was a head scratcher. The answer came in the form of a mistake, as the regulator arrived with an alloy bowl and not a glass one. This allowed me to mount it right where the fuel line emerges from the gearbox forks(?). Slightly bent bracket bolted through the floor of the rear seat area does make it a bit of a pain to adjust, but this is rare operation so not really an issue. A word of warning, make sure you use a decent quality pressure gauge as the crappy £4 EBay one I had lying around the garage was, er, lying. The fuel pump was mounted in the nearside triangle plate under the fuel tank with a Facet filter union on the inlet side, earthed to the chassis and the feed wire winding it's way to the loom behind the dashboard.
Previous to this we had fitted a Facet Solid State pump and Filter King to Mark's bus so knew the combo worked well. I then started thinking about relays. Knowing that running a fuel pump direct from the ignition is a second disaster waiting to make the first disaster worse, I wanted to run a relay like most normal production cars do. So I headed over to VZI to see what the wise and knowledgeable had to say. Luckily, one of the most wise and knowledgeable had posted on a thread with exactly what I was looking for, here. What I loved about this design is the bypass relay that kicks in when cranking and the alternator light is lit effectively starving the carbs of fuel if it were just a single relay design. So I grabbed a couple of 5 pin relays (You can use a 5 in place of a 4, you just don't wire up 87a) and fitted them to the bus. That all worked well.
On the bug, I used micro relays instead along with a couple of bases to ease installation. All seemed to be fine but it was an absolute pig to start after a long layoff. Obviously the fuel in the float chambers had buggered off and we were essentially priming the carbs with by cranking the motor. This wasn't an ideal situation and along with a dodgy connection was one of the reasons a Damage club beetle that we fitted this design to didn't make it to a show. (Sorry Emma ). To combat this issue I decided to revert back to Dave's (Mr Whippy) first wiring diagram and introduce the priming switch. I fitted a momentary switch, removed the second relay as if you really need the pump to work while cranking, you can hold the button down until the engine fires and the first relay kicks in.
Not really sure why Mark's bus works so well after a layoff with the dual relay system. Maybe it's to do with the very short fuel run plus the added benefit of gravity. All I know it works and if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Below are Dave's wiring diagrams as well as a terminal mapping table if you want to use micro relays.
|Full Size Relay||Micro Relay|
Many thanks to Dave for letting me use his diagrams and for the many posts on VZI that I am sure have helped loads of people, myself obviously included.
Got bored with Myrtle running out of electricity while entertaining the Damage lot with tunes at shows so decided to fit a split charge system. Started by investigating what was needed and came to the conclusion that I needed a lot of 25mm2 cable, fuses and a relay. What I didn’t know is what relay would I need? I know the alternator pumps out 55amps but would I really need a relay to cope with all that? The trusty threads on VZI had a range of people fitting all kinds of ratings so I had no definitive answer there.
I then decided to actually ask someone who worked in the automotive electrical industry. This was a good move. I had previously used Altec Automotive to procure a few bits and bobs so decided to email them as they had a few custom built split charge relay systems listed on their website. First thing they asked was what would the nominal power consumption of the audio sytem be? Well I don’t really have the foggiest so grabbed the manuals for the amplifiers to try and find out. Didn’t really have much luck so sent the details over to Jonathan at Altec who informed me that I was looking at a 70amp draw, but as the altenator only chucks out 55, that’s all I would need. Typically, no off the shelf system they had would suit my needs.
I was wondering if the guys running smaller amp relays were replacing them frequently or just had very small amplifiers, so asked the question:
“Do I REALLY need that much capacity? Surely when the amplifiers are on, no charge will cross the relay anyway?”
“If you run the auxiliary battery down to zero, and you were to start the car to charge it back up while continuing to run the stereo, you will draw all the power from the starter battery across the relay” (paraphrased)
Ahhhhh. I see. Quite a specific scenario I thought. But then realised jumping in the car after a show with an empty aux battery and driving home you are
likely to want some tunes on. So, where do I go from here? As it happened Altec came through for me and had a few second hand Antares units going cheap at £55 + VAT. Rated at 140amps this puppy would future-proof the system for quite a while .As the JL Audi
o subwoofer amplifier states a minimum of 4awg(!) cabling, I decided to use 25mm2 cable throughout the build to keep costs down of terminals and fuse holders. A decent amount of cash exchanged hands and the build could begin.
We already had a 4 channel amplifier fitted under the passenger seat that powered two 6″ x 9″ Kenwood 3 way speakers and the other two channels were bridged to power a 10″ JL Audio subwoofer. All speakers are fitted in a custom 18mm MDF compartmentalised box with the subwoofer compartment ported. As I was using heavier cable for the new subwoofer monoblock, I decided to move the 4 channel amplifier to under the driver seat so the cable run from the auxiliary battery to the new amplifier would be shorter. (As is stands now, I am thinking about running heavier cable for the 4 channel amplifier so that was a bit of a waste of time, but hey ho). Upon finding the existing MDF mounting to be a bit soggy, we forgoe using bolts to fix the wooden battons to the floor. The existing holes got welded up and gripfill was substituted as the fixing mechanism. No more leaky floor for me. One word of advice if you do use this way, make sure you stick the battons to the actual metal car floor, not the rubbery sound deadening crap that I had.
Next work turned to making up the cables. Again, lots of googling as to the best way to make up what essentially are battery cables. There were basically 3 ways of doing it,
- Solder and crimp
After reading stories of solder melting in the terminal and the cable plopping out, I decided again the ask Altec. The answer was a simple “If you have access to crimpers, use them as it’s simpler and cleaner”. Luckily I have a Magic Mike, and he works somewhere that have a need for big crimpers so I called in a favour. Mike promptly turned up with a massive set of new hydraulic crimpers that he had never used before. And couldn’t use. And even if he could use them, we didn’t have the correct dies. Legend.
It was a bit of a stroke of luck really as the terminals that came with the fuse holders were a bit odd and wouldn’t have really worked in either Mike’s crimper of the one I eventually bought from Altec along with another bag of normal terminals to replace the “odd” fuse holder items.
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The Antares unit was going to be fitted next to the starter battery but space was starting to get a bit tight so I moved it up and mounted it to the speaker box behind the rear seat. Annoyingly I decided to do this after I had cut the cable lengths and luckily another mate happened to have a long length of 4AWG left over from a previous build. Next, I connected everything up and tested the Antares box to make sure it was charging when the car was running and disconnected from the main system when not.
Order of connections were:
- Starter battery positive terminal to 60 amp fuse.
- Fuse to “Main” terminal on Antares.
- “Aux” terminal on Antares to 60 amp fuse.
- Fuse to leisure battery positive terminal.
- Blue wire from Antares to any earth.
- Connect both negative battery terminals to the car body ensuring a good contact.
Using a multimeter, I tested connectivity between the two positive terminals of the batteries. Nothing. Good. Started the car and then tested the voltage going to the leisure battery. 13.8V. Fabulous. Finally the amplifiers got fitted, wired up and tested.
Next on the list will be tidying up a few terminals that didn’t get heat shrink and also fitting two battery trays with clamps.
As always, Thanks to Mark for the help 🙂